Posts Tagged ‘Zuma Beach’

Friday Morning

Saturday, May 23rd, 2009

7am, in the water at Zuma, foggy like always before noon on a summer day, and the dolphins came inside the break, playing in the waves in water that was only up to my chest, closer to the shore than we were. The only thing that wasn’t perfect was having to keep an eye on the time so I could make it back to town and into work by 10am.

It’s really easy to get wrapped up in existential crises and angst. It’s considered hip to be a caustic sort inured to suffering or an artistic sort who suffers because, ya’know, that’s what you do if you are an artist, ’cause no one appreciates your genius. Or something. But the dolphins were playing in the same waves I was this morning, only a few feet away, and when that happens I realize that anything I’m suffering from is either imaginary or due to a lack of gratitude, and I don’t really have a fucking thing to complain about.

Zuma on my birthday

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009

Birthday #3

Zuma March 21 2009

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009

This week’s beach update splits between two weekends. The idea here is to try to convey what this experience is like for me…which is not about a bunch of macho young man’s stuff in which one tames a wave and conquers nature and engages in Xtreme anything…it’s more about the fact that you cannot conquer nature, you cannot will the ocean to do anything, it’s not listening to you and really doesn’t even know you’re there. it’s about some sort of sense of one-ness with the whole thing. It’s sort of easy to get that feeling of serene awe when you are sitting on a board in the ocean with the dolphins swimming not so far beyond you, storm clouds building over the mountains…

It’s like the Buddhist mindfulness/Vipasanna meditation, which is a meditation not of blissed out, what’s-up-with-my-naval escapism, but of focus, concentration on specific aspects of the immediate here-and-now.

Guts board
My board, Zuma, March 14, 2009

Tere
Tere, Zuma, March 21, 2009

Alva’s Board

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009

Early March at Zuma Beach.

Alva's Board
Tony Alva loaned me this.

Zuma Beach
Tere with his mini-Simmons. This board always gets a lot of comments.

March 2 8am

Wednesday, March 4th, 2009

Zuma Beach, March 2009