Archive for the ‘Surf’ Category

Nothing

Wednesday, November 25th, 2009

I discovered that it is necessary, absolutely necessary, to believe in nothing. That is, we have to believe in something which has no form and no color – something which exists before all forms and colors appear. This is a very important point. No matter what god or doctrine you believe in, if you become attached to it, your belief will be based more or less on a self-centered idea. You strive for a perfect faith in order to save yourself. But it will take time to attain such a perfect faith. You will be involved in an idealistic practice. In constantly seeking to actualize your ideal, you will have no time for composure. But if you are always prepared for accepting everything we see as something appearing from nothing, knowing that there is some reason why a phenomenal existence of such and such form and color appears, then at that moment you will have perfect composure.

Shunryu Suzuki, Zen Mind, Beginner’s Mind (Weatherhill, 1970), pg 116

Venice Beach, Labor Day 2009

Friday, September 25th, 2009

Venice Beach, Labor Day #1

Two cholitas on Venice Beach, Labor Day 2009.

Surfer Girl. Venice Beach, August 30th, 6:30 pm

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

Venice Beach #1

Venice Beach, August 30th, 6:30 pm. I’ve never before ridden the bike path through Venice - too much work dodging tourists and roller skaters - but there was no riding in town due to the toxic air from the fires.

Never having ridden the path I’d no idea how different Venice looked from the perspective of 10 feet further south than the boardwalk. It’s a completely different viewpoint, an insider’s viewpoint maybe, and I’m always thrilled when something as simple as a shift in position opens up what is to me a complete change in perspective, especially of something I’ve seen so very many times over so very many years from the earlier seemingly fixed viewpoint.

If you click on it you can see it bigger. It’s like magic.

Celia, Baja, 1991

Tuesday, July 14th, 2009

Baja 1991This is a shot of my (now ex) wife, down in Baja California, a week or so after we got married, which was somewhere around 1991, I’m pretty sure, although I have really always struggled with dates.

Then, as now, the thing I enjoyed the most in life was spending all day, every day at the beach. What I didn’t realize is that this is somewhat rare. Even my surfer friends nowadays have this ridiculously activity oriented approach: they head out, surf for a couple of hours, and then leap back into their cars and dash back into town so that they can engage in activities and feel like good, productive, patriotic Americans. Surfing is leisure to them, but leisure is an activity.

This makes no sense to me. It’s a Calvinist thing, from what I understand.

One awesome thing about Celia was that she really could chill out on the sand without any compulsion to do activities. She understood leisure.

Sunset Beach

Friday, June 26th, 2009

Sunset Beach
Sunset Beach, May 10 2009

Vancouver Island, 1994

Sunday, June 21st, 2009

I’ve been to this place twice. The first time was during a family vacation in the 70s. I remembered it as cold, desolate, and stunningly beautiful. I remembered enormous driftwood - not just a piece of wood but the entire tree. I remembered abandoned lean-tos and other shelters made out of driftwood, by hippies, I reckoned.

And when I returned a little over 20 years later, it was exactly as I remember.

Vancouver Island

Vancouver Island, 1994

Saturday, May 30th, 2009

Long Beach, Vancouver Island, 1994

Long Beach, on Vancouver Island. 1994.

Opposite side of the island from my parents’ house, which was right on the beach. That was my mother’s deal. She loved the ocean. My stepfather was a prairie boy and hated both the ocean and all the trees. He preferred a flat and endless stretch of wheat fields.

My mother said that when she died she didn’t want any sort of a big fuss with a lot of people. She just wanted her immediate family to wade into the ocean she could see from her porch and quietly scatter her ashes there. So that’s what we did.

A day or two later I took a solo trip across the island.

Long Beach was a place I remembered visiting when I was about 12. I remembered it was cold, desolate, and really beautiful. I also remembered that hippies had built all sorts of shelters out of the driftwood.

It hadn’t changed much from my memories as a kid in the early 70s. It was still desolate, beautiful, and the only signs of humans were odd bits of hippie detritus.

Miles of beach, middle of August, and I was the only person there.

Night

Saturday, May 23rd, 2009

I had a few shots left to run out a roll. Abbott’s board on my porch.

Potato Chip

Friday Morning

Saturday, May 23rd, 2009

7am, in the water at Zuma, foggy like always before noon on a summer day, and the dolphins came inside the break, playing in the waves in water that was only up to my chest, closer to the shore than we were. The only thing that wasn’t perfect was having to keep an eye on the time so I could make it back to town and into work by 10am.

It’s really easy to get wrapped up in existential crises and angst. It’s considered hip to be a caustic sort inured to suffering or an artistic sort who suffers because, ya’know, that’s what you do if you are an artist, ’cause no one appreciates your genius. Or something. But the dolphins were playing in the same waves I was this morning, only a few feet away, and when that happens I realize that anything I’m suffering from is either imaginary or due to a lack of gratitude, and I don’t really have a fucking thing to complain about.

Night Surf

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

April 26th. We headed out to Zuma around 5pm. The wind was blowing hard from the north and it was too cold to even bother. South on PCH traffic was jammed, one accident after another. We stopped off at Topanga. There was no surf. A bunch of ambulances pulled up. A helicopter landed. Some time went by while they worked on the victim. Once he was stable enough they moved him quickly into the helicopter. Even from a distance you could see blood on the sheets covering him on the stretcher.

We headed down further to little Sunset. High tide, mellow surf. Watched the sun set on our boards, and surfed into the dark. I didn’t realize how cold I was until I got out and discovered I couldn’t feel the ground. It took an hour before I got feeling back in my feet.

Churn
High tide churn at night

topanga beach
Topanga
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