April 26th. We headed out to Zuma around 5pm. The wind was blowing hard from the north and it was too cold to even bother. South on PCH traffic was jammed, one accident after another. We stopped off at Topanga. There was no surf. A bunch of ambulances pulled up. A helicopter landed. Some time went by while they worked on the victim. Once he was stable enough they moved him quickly into the helicopter. Even from a distance you could see blood on the sheets covering him on the stretcher.

We headed down further to little Sunset. High tide, mellow surf. Watched the sun set on our boards, and surfed into the dark. I didn’t realize how cold I was until I got out and discovered I couldn’t feel the ground. It took an hour before I got feeling back in my feet.

High tide churn at night

Topanga


Helicopter takes off with accident victim

Portajohn on PCH

Tere

Two boards

MS-13 has claimed this beach. From Pico Union to PCH - who knew they surfed?

MS-13 and the Mini Simmons

My Town & Country board

Long and Short: my Town & Country & Tere’s Mini Simmons

Paddling out at sunset

Tags: Malibu, Surf, Topanga

This entry was posted on Thursday, April 30th, 2009 at 2:00 pm and is filed under Surf. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.